General 40k Shinanigans

Posts tagged “GS

Evolution of a better Obliterator

So… everyone has seen THIS conversion

 

 

But I didn’t like that (though I have three of them…).  So, to have a better Obliterator.  I COULD do minor head swaps and pose changes to generate a better model from the GW model which I dislike.

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BUT, I like those models that make people really go, “WOW”.  SO…I decided to make defiler babies!

My first attempt:

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I used a tutorial I found on Chest of Colors ( I was going to link it, but it doesn’t exist anymore seemingly).  It described how to make crap legs and claws.  It worked, but was rather crude and extremely time intensive.  So I opted to try to use tyranid scything talons.

My SECOND attempt:

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Better claw (ork kustom power klaw).  I liked the 6 legs as it was more true to a defiler.  But, it was a static position and I didn’t like it enough to do more (though I still liked it).  So, the project lay fallow for many a months.  Then, the other day I was like “Screw it, I’ll build legs out of sprue!”.  After many hours of measuring, cutting, drilling, chipping, and shaving I ended up with a basic armature.  Slap a terminator body on it and VOILA! I have a defiler that has legs 40% the size of defiler legs (well, I TECHNICALLY measured a soulgrinder.  Whatever).  I used chaos shields on the front 4 legs to replace the leg shielding, added some spikes and some bits to get a sense of dimension to see where I needed to go.  THIS is the start.

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HOWEVER, it was falling prey to all of the same problems as the other ones.  Static pose (though he had 6 articulated legs FFS!), odd scale, generally off-puting.  SO, I swapped his head to the top like a defiler.  Then I added exhaust pipes and started adding cabling and details to him.  THIS is where he is now.

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So, the squad together looks impressive . Very non-uniform but all sort of the same.  Looking forward to painting these guys and fielding 6 oblits…ALL OF THEM DIFFERENT!

Defiler Squad

*As you can see, the detail improves as the size increases.  Ironically, he fits on a 40mm base best.  HOWEVER, I plan to use either 50 or 60 mm bases.  50 if I can get them, but if not, then 60’s and I will just put a bunch of crap on them.  The last one will likely be descending something or crawling across/over something to capitalize and display the articulation in his legs.

 

Thanks for reading.  More to follow!

 

-KI

 

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Chaos Lord of Nurgle

So I have begun painting a conversion that I began working on after ordering Greenstuff Industries Tentacle Maker.  The concept began as a possible obliterator conversion as I have yet to find the legs that make me truly happy with my miniature defiler conversion.  However, for the Chaos Lord of Nurgle, it looks epic.  So I asked myself, how do I tie in Nurgle with Word Bearers.  So I opted for a Nurgle Lord with classic Nurgle colors (green, brown, bone) with the remnants of previous garments before swelling and deforming being the colors of my primary chapter (crimson, black, parchment).

Overall, he is a massive kitbash.  He emerges from these kits (from what I remember)

Head: Plaguebearer

Torso- Chaos Terminator Sorcerer

Lightning Claw: Terminator Lord

Power Fist: Terminator Box

Shoulder Pad: Chaos Knights

Book: Plague monks

Nurgling: Plaguebearers

Icon: Bloodletters w/ the top from a plaguebearers kit.

Cape: Loincloth of daemon prince

Loincloth: Terminator Lord

I began painting last night.  I built up the armor slightly to add a bit of definition to the areas I will highlight.  I then painted the head, banner, and tentacles.  The tentacles are a 3:2 ratio of elf flesh and changling pink and then washed with purple then red.  This is what I have thus far.

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The pictures are not great. I took them after I finished painting.  The banner will be a brownish color while the skull will be bright white with a sharp contrast producing wash and the spine will also be the same.  All of the brass will get the new oxidizing technical paint on it, so I am looking forward to that.  The Nurgling will be a green-brown to create contrast.  The parchments will all get a 1:1 mix of agrax earthshade and ogryn flesh to slowly drop the tone to aged paper.  The tentacles will get a drybrush of a light pink and then some hard highlights of either a brighter pink or a brighter, sharper, flesh color.

Well, thanks for reading.

KI


Bases: Cobblestones

So I have used resin bases before.  They are detailed and nice.  But I was looking for thick cobbletones or crude paving stones.  something you would see in 17th century France.  So I decided to GS some.  Viewed alone, the stones are crude and exaggerated.  However, I think in the 28mm scale they work well.

So…this is how I do it (right now, looking into a different way to do it).

Materials needed:

Base of choice

Green Stuff

Sculpting Tools.

That’s it.  It’s actually very simple.

Onto the process.

First, take a ball of GS and flatten it to cover the base evenly with GS.  Use whatever technique you want to flatten and portion this out.  The deeper the GS, the more pronounced the cracks between the stones.  Deeper cracks are nice if you want a more aged look with sprouts of grass popping up between the stones.

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Next, use something long and straight.  For 25mm bases, I use the back of my blade and for larger bases I use my kitchen paring knife.  Just make sure you wash it afterwards.  Make parralell lines across the base.  It should look like this:

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This will be the width of your bricks.  If you want scale, I go for the width of a space marine foot for width.  Narrower is fine, but it can be tedious if you are doing a lot of them.  So I go with a space marine foot.

Next, you need to seperate the stones.  Take a blade and start from one side and cut very lightly into the GS to make the lines.  Make them light in case you don’t like it once you are done.  Make sure you alternate them like bricks, but not perfectly.  I opt for a rough hewn look (again, think 17th century France) and vary the lengths between 1.5 and 2 times the width normally.  Some end up very short.

Now, it’s time to start.  Take some water to make your blade non-stick.  Also, chap-stick works as well and doesn’t seem to create a problem when painting…all you have to do is rinse it off after you are done.  Cut the length cuts deeper, down to the base.  Make sure that the blase is sharp.  If it is dull, it will pull.  If you HAPPEN to have a tool that can make cuts and is the same width or narrower than the bricks and you can use a chisel motion, that’s great.  Overall, should look like this after this step:

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Well, this looks like a brick wall or freshly laid flagstones.  Take a tool for shaping.  I use the spoon side of the GW sculpting tool.

Now, go around the brick corners and flatten them a little.

Afterwards, you should have this:

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This is sort of plain.  So I use a sculpting tool with an edge and pick away at the brick edges to cause damage.  Also, if you cut to the base, if you wait a while you can pull one up and lay it at an angle as if it had come out of place or you can even put dirt there to show a missing stone.  I also put bullet marks, chaos symbols, and general wear and tear.

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Last step would be to adjust the contour.  No cobblestone is perfectly smooth.  Again, I take the smooth side of the GW spoon end sculpting tool and create small indents in various bricks, making sure I don’t make a pattern.  It’s subtle and small, but will pay off huge when you apply washes.

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So, the final product looks like this:

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Thanks for reading, hope you found this useful!

KI