General 40k Shinanigans

Posts tagged “Green stuff

Obliterators, Vindicator Shield, Possessed, and More! (Pictures in progress)

So, it’s been a while since I got a good hobby update in.  So, since my last set of pics, I have made some good progress.  First, the painting.  I finished my Predator.  I airbrushed the base, wash, and highlights.  The wash was rough, but worked fine.  I really need to work on my freehand writing though.  I think I may get a caligraphy pen and work with that for fine writing on models as black ink will work well.  If anyone has tips on stylish freehand writing, let me know.

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Bonus points for anyone who gets the Chi-Rho and the term “Under this Sign” Statement.  Fitting, as I play Word Bearers.  The guy on top reminds me of the meme “Drive closer, I want to stab him with my sword!”.  Overall, I like it.  I matches my style and the paint job is solid.  May go back and highlight those black areas with the same scorching streaks that adorn the infantry.

Now, here are the last of the possessed.

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The other four still need their scorching streaks on their black armor, but I really like them.  The combination of all the different colors and textures made them fun and challenging to paint.  They served as an opportunity to practice blades, metal, skin, eyes, teeth, horns, hooves, power armor, wings, claws…yeah, pretty much everything I paint.  I have 4 more to paint and that will finish my possessed squad.

I continued working on the vindicator shield, though making only a little progress.

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I have the basics for bits and now I am going to start cleaning it up and blending.  Basically, adding the initial layer, another layer of bits, one more structural layer, then finishing details.

I also have started a project of revamping my terminators.  I wanted something more chaos-ish.  I plan to get the horus heresy terminators for REGULAR (ie-non-aligned terminators).  HOWEVER, I wanted these guys for my chaos lords retinue…this guy:

 

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So, I didn’t want to do tentacles.  I wanted something else.  Partly because while this guy turned out REALLY well, he was a) a royal pain in the ass, b)used a metric ton of bits and GS, and c) there was no way to keep him on a 40mm base and not look awkward.  Now, I am perfectly fine making my bases bigger for very small squads (oblits), characters (my lord or thirster) but for terminators I wanted them smaller and obviously subordinate to this guy.  So yeah, I came up with this idea:

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Yeah, so he is attached to a goblin spider rear.  I used a possessed head, though I am not sold (it’s just on a ball of GS as a mount).  But I really like how it came out.  It still needs some GS work (the bottom of it is hollowed, the joining area and the leg bases, plus the areas around the underarms).  But yeah, this is something that I think when the lord and retinue are on the table, they will draw a good bit of attention.

Lastly, my second oblit is ready for GS.  I wanted a dynamic pose on this guy, so I came up with this.  He is the exact same size as the other one (so much larger than a normal terminator) but he is more reared up in a striking pose so looks taller.  Excited to get this guy done and then one more.  It’s the kind of squad that people really like seeing on the table.

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He still has to get some more bits after the GS work, but most of the primary bits are done.  GS work will be daemonic flesh, cabling, skulls, and the joints of the legs.  This guy has less complicated legs than the other one and thus will take more effort in the post-production phase.

 

Hey, would love comments and suggestions!

 

Thanks for reading!,

KI

 


Chaos Lord of Nurgle

So I have begun painting a conversion that I began working on after ordering Greenstuff Industries Tentacle Maker.  The concept began as a possible obliterator conversion as I have yet to find the legs that make me truly happy with my miniature defiler conversion.  However, for the Chaos Lord of Nurgle, it looks epic.  So I asked myself, how do I tie in Nurgle with Word Bearers.  So I opted for a Nurgle Lord with classic Nurgle colors (green, brown, bone) with the remnants of previous garments before swelling and deforming being the colors of my primary chapter (crimson, black, parchment).

Overall, he is a massive kitbash.  He emerges from these kits (from what I remember)

Head: Plaguebearer

Torso- Chaos Terminator Sorcerer

Lightning Claw: Terminator Lord

Power Fist: Terminator Box

Shoulder Pad: Chaos Knights

Book: Plague monks

Nurgling: Plaguebearers

Icon: Bloodletters w/ the top from a plaguebearers kit.

Cape: Loincloth of daemon prince

Loincloth: Terminator Lord

I began painting last night.  I built up the armor slightly to add a bit of definition to the areas I will highlight.  I then painted the head, banner, and tentacles.  The tentacles are a 3:2 ratio of elf flesh and changling pink and then washed with purple then red.  This is what I have thus far.

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The pictures are not great. I took them after I finished painting.  The banner will be a brownish color while the skull will be bright white with a sharp contrast producing wash and the spine will also be the same.  All of the brass will get the new oxidizing technical paint on it, so I am looking forward to that.  The Nurgling will be a green-brown to create contrast.  The parchments will all get a 1:1 mix of agrax earthshade and ogryn flesh to slowly drop the tone to aged paper.  The tentacles will get a drybrush of a light pink and then some hard highlights of either a brighter pink or a brighter, sharper, flesh color.

Well, thanks for reading.

KI


Bases: Cobblestones

So I have used resin bases before.  They are detailed and nice.  But I was looking for thick cobbletones or crude paving stones.  something you would see in 17th century France.  So I decided to GS some.  Viewed alone, the stones are crude and exaggerated.  However, I think in the 28mm scale they work well.

So…this is how I do it (right now, looking into a different way to do it).

Materials needed:

Base of choice

Green Stuff

Sculpting Tools.

That’s it.  It’s actually very simple.

Onto the process.

First, take a ball of GS and flatten it to cover the base evenly with GS.  Use whatever technique you want to flatten and portion this out.  The deeper the GS, the more pronounced the cracks between the stones.  Deeper cracks are nice if you want a more aged look with sprouts of grass popping up between the stones.

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Next, use something long and straight.  For 25mm bases, I use the back of my blade and for larger bases I use my kitchen paring knife.  Just make sure you wash it afterwards.  Make parralell lines across the base.  It should look like this:

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This will be the width of your bricks.  If you want scale, I go for the width of a space marine foot for width.  Narrower is fine, but it can be tedious if you are doing a lot of them.  So I go with a space marine foot.

Next, you need to seperate the stones.  Take a blade and start from one side and cut very lightly into the GS to make the lines.  Make them light in case you don’t like it once you are done.  Make sure you alternate them like bricks, but not perfectly.  I opt for a rough hewn look (again, think 17th century France) and vary the lengths between 1.5 and 2 times the width normally.  Some end up very short.

Now, it’s time to start.  Take some water to make your blade non-stick.  Also, chap-stick works as well and doesn’t seem to create a problem when painting…all you have to do is rinse it off after you are done.  Cut the length cuts deeper, down to the base.  Make sure that the blase is sharp.  If it is dull, it will pull.  If you HAPPEN to have a tool that can make cuts and is the same width or narrower than the bricks and you can use a chisel motion, that’s great.  Overall, should look like this after this step:

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Well, this looks like a brick wall or freshly laid flagstones.  Take a tool for shaping.  I use the spoon side of the GW sculpting tool.

Now, go around the brick corners and flatten them a little.

Afterwards, you should have this:

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This is sort of plain.  So I use a sculpting tool with an edge and pick away at the brick edges to cause damage.  Also, if you cut to the base, if you wait a while you can pull one up and lay it at an angle as if it had come out of place or you can even put dirt there to show a missing stone.  I also put bullet marks, chaos symbols, and general wear and tear.

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Last step would be to adjust the contour.  No cobblestone is perfectly smooth.  Again, I take the smooth side of the GW spoon end sculpting tool and create small indents in various bricks, making sure I don’t make a pattern.  It’s subtle and small, but will pay off huge when you apply washes.

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So, the final product looks like this:

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Thanks for reading, hope you found this useful!

KI


Sorcerer WIP 1

So,  I love sorcerers.  The conversion opportunities are endless.  SO I am using an older body and conversion and my primary conversion that is new is an arm.  An open handed arm that casting a psychic power with the power being unleash on…well, I believe an unwitting space marine though I have modeled that yet.

 

Thus far, here is the arm and power.

008This part is the easiest by far.  I have to clean up the wrist a little and I attempted to push out the arm to the side by building up the joint, but the magnets squished the GS and now I must start over.  Grr.

However, the psychic power projection requires much more effort.  First, I built a wire armature…

010 011The intent clearly (well…hopefully clearly) is a left hand.  After building the hand, I had to start to cover it with GS.  After covering it with GS up to the areas that I have to shape to be holding the target.  After, I started to put the detail flames on it.  This is a multi-step process in which I have to let layers of flame dry first.  Here is the layer:

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So this is where the armature stands now.  I am going to build the flames up to the wrist before I detail the hand to establish a solid style first.  There will be more done tonight,hoping to wrap the flames all the way around the arm.

 

Well, thanks for reading,

KI

 


On my desk

So I find myself mores excited about the upcoming break from school for painting more than playing. Right now, I have three projects of hefty caliber lined up on my desk, one from each of the armies I have and another in the works. Essentially, I am making a kick ass model for each of the painting categories.

25 mm- the slaanesh sorcerer. He has had little love paid towards him last few days but I finally got the last bit for him. I need to finish up the marines flamer spurt, GS some tormented souls on the jump pack, do up the ground (still not sure what I want for a base…thinking green as marine will be blue and sorcerer will be pink so grass with bits of scorched grass in there). Then finish the marines foot, remove the blue tack and start gluing minor components on, paint, then attach major components after painting. His imagined paint scheme will be a dark pink worked up to a super bright pink with emperors children sign on his shoulder. Need to pick a company for the smurf (thus a edging color…I will likely refer to my local SME on smurfs for this one). The trimming on him will be black with metallic details and purple loincloth and lenses. The whip will be black crackling with either purple or blue lightning (which will wrap onto his hand to indicate the power source is the sorcerer himself).

40 mm- this one is still in the planning stages, nothing hard yet.

60 mm- yeah…nothing for this one yet either.

Monster- the big bad ice thirster. Planned out his base, working on making icicles, plotted out the color scheme. Slow going on this guy. Oh, gotta get new brushes before I tackle this guy as he is so big I don’t want mistakes.

Squad- converting a squad of storm vermin into storm Troopers with the infiltrate doctrine. They will be armed with fantasy hell rifles (the multi-barreled ones) and I am going to convert them so that they are crouching. After that I am going to use dunked bases to make them emerging from water (cutting off some of their feet) and put ghili suits on them. Cool part will be some of the strips of cloth will “float” on the water to give a dynamic sense of motion.

Diorama- either a diorama on the battle of rynns world or a diorama called over the top with IG going over a trench line wearing bretonian style pan helmets (sorta think WW I). Big thing here is that it will have a back drop depicting the rest of the battle and the explosions in the distance and I have some orks for the close in enemies. Get some concertina wire for the obstacles for the orcs. Put little letters stabbed into the trench wall with knives and at the bottom have a commissar shouting and an officer with a whistle or bullhorn or something. Overall, fun to make.

Yeah, so I am pretty well set up for the next quite a few months… Should be a blast!

On that note, my khorne army is coming along. Made some progress on them blue hounds and bloodletters. Need to attach the bloodletter heads, finish up the hounds, do basing and details on both then I can start working on the ice crushers! Hopefully my khorne army gets some luvin come February…they need it!!!!!

Hey, thanks for reading,

KI


Almost finished!

So, almost finished the DPoN I have been working on for what seems like ages.  Mind you, this guy has a handful of bitz and is otherwise GS, milput, toothpicks, and of course…RBB.

Yeah, he's a worm.  Allows me to run him with "wings" or not.

So. Much. Green. Stuff…

Will post some better pictures of him.  I still have to complete the base and do the webbing for the other side of the jaw.

The tentacles turned out shorter than I was going to do initially.  I did this largely for model balance.  There are 4 of them, but I may add two much longer ones (sort of like a squid’s ambush tentacles) to have as well to play with and make him look a little more dynamic.  The base will be built up foam and flock, with some clumps of dirt and rocks then painted light brown on the outside and dark brown and black with a gloss finish on the inside to make it look like freshly churned wet earth.  Moss and mold effects to EVERYTHING.  Then some rocks that get pushed up from below as well to cap off the “crater” effect.  I may have a hapless space marine (UMs of course) being somehow in trouble from this guy.

Right now he is a little off balance (not as bad as he looks in the pic, that’s the curvature of the lightbox).  Will likely add some heavy weights to the base to make him quite sturdy and solid no matter what I put him on.

I may also bend the headed tongue to be looking more straight on.

 

Would love to get comments and suggestions.

Thanks for reading!,

KI


“Man I suck at GS’ing”

“Man, I suck at GS’ing” or “Wow, I wish I could do that with GS”

Sound familiar? Most people have heard or read this lots. People see a finished product and are amazed at the work and bemoan their own GS ability to replicate good or great work. But they forget one thing…

GS is done in stages, just like painting.

When someone paints a model, they don’t start priming it and go from prime all the way to highlights in a spot, or even really in a single session. No, it is in stages. If you paint like I do (not going to put in all the coats) you likely paint similar to this- Prime, base colors dark, wash dark, base light, wash light, touch ups, details, highlights, final touchups/freehand/ fine details (pupils and such) and fit basing in there somewhere. But many people for GS will go- Mix, apply, shape.

Why is this? I find myself contemplating this as I let the first layer of GS for the objective markers I am scratch building dry. They have the base design, but they hardly are ready to start casting yet! I will have two or three more sessions…and this is for a FLAT 40mm objective.

So when doing GS, think of it as paint. Prime (clean and score), Basics (this is great for getting the shape right), basic texture (start making those texture cuts. Remember, you can wait for it to cure partly to make it a little easier to work with in some respects), then fine details. Keep your layers thin and only mix what GS you need. You can always mix more…you just cant unmix that stuff though.

Then to tie it all together, they have the joy that is liquid GS which works wonders to fill in those obnoxious areas on large builds.

Working in stages also gives you a moment to reflect on work. If you knock it all out at once, you may return and realize you don’t like it as much. With stages you can look at it the next day after the initial shape and say “crap, I don’t like that but I can do THIS to fix it” (insert hobby-ish idea in place of THIS if this were a real situation).

Bottom line is to remember that while GS’ing is horribly annoying at first, it takes practice. Lots of it. I am hardly amazing at it, but I am 100 times better than where I was a year ago. Practice will make you better quickly, especially with bigger projects, and in no time people will be amazed at your “Mad GS’ing skilz”

Thanks for Reading,
KI