Well all, it looks like the end of a year of blogging. It’s been a long year and I’ve made a lot of progress. I hope to tonight, before that ball drops, post a few last minute pictures of where my armies stand. If not, wordpress was nice enough to wrap up my blogging this year…how nice of them.
Thanks for reading,
The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2013 annual report for this blog.
Here’s an excerpt:
A San Francisco cable car holds 60 people. This blog was viewed about 2,800 times in 2013. If it were a cable car, it would take about 47 trips to carry that many people.
So this is a point of discussion at my FLGS. What’s realistic? What makes sense? Blah blah blah.. So let’s look at warfare in the 40th millennium and compare it to now.
Today, attacks are conducted as such:Now this is simplified. But there are several key elements: Suppression, Overwhelming fire (aka “fire superiority”), maneuver, and coordination.
NOW, this is NOT simply a comparison. Here I will discuss, how do you PULL THIS OFF with a 40k unit, or what would a similar flanking attack look like? It will make some pretty hefty assumptions, but work with me here. The squad attack diagram also makes hefty assumptions. It’s a frame.
So does 40k work the same way? No. However, the basic concepts remain similar. This is countered by a larger element, better weapons, etc. Also it can be countered by different armies. But a doctrinal basis is the first thing to have in developing a strategy. I have found that I win often playing “by the seat of my pants” but it is becoming tougher to win with balanced lists this way. Obviously this is scalable.
Well, thanks for reading. Will discuss different elements of comparison later.
So as I am getting closer to completion of my CSM force I found myself cleaning up and putting all my models out on display, realizing that a) I have models to armies I no longer play and b) I have models that have not hit the table in nearly three years. So, I find myself wondering – what to do with these models? Some I think I should keep, but others I am not so sure, and others have already been slated for destructions (ie- the garbage…)
So what I have that I just NEVER play with and I may sack-
20 daemonettes (though these guys I may keep)
Keeper of secrets
Things that am very likely to sack-
Starter kit hellbrute
Things of armies I don’t play with anymore
5 old GK metal terminators
GK grandmaster (metal conversion)
Bunch of IG
A necromunda (I think) gang.
Things I AM getting rid of-
Metric ass ton of skaven from an abandoned skaven guard project
Several beat up Russ tanks
2 converted griffons
So what does everyone else do with their old stuff. I would like to get to the point of everything being painted and I am gradually getting there and as I get closer I consider buying more stuff but I would like to slim down first, would love the idea of others!
Thanks for reading,
So I have begun painting a conversion that I began working on after ordering Greenstuff Industries Tentacle Maker. The concept began as a possible obliterator conversion as I have yet to find the legs that make me truly happy with my miniature defiler conversion. However, for the Chaos Lord of Nurgle, it looks epic. So I asked myself, how do I tie in Nurgle with Word Bearers. So I opted for a Nurgle Lord with classic Nurgle colors (green, brown, bone) with the remnants of previous garments before swelling and deforming being the colors of my primary chapter (crimson, black, parchment).
Overall, he is a massive kitbash. He emerges from these kits (from what I remember)
Torso- Chaos Terminator Sorcerer
Lightning Claw: Terminator Lord
Power Fist: Terminator Box
Shoulder Pad: Chaos Knights
Book: Plague monks
Icon: Bloodletters w/ the top from a plaguebearers kit.
Cape: Loincloth of daemon prince
Loincloth: Terminator Lord
I began painting last night. I built up the armor slightly to add a bit of definition to the areas I will highlight. I then painted the head, banner, and tentacles. The tentacles are a 3:2 ratio of elf flesh and changling pink and then washed with purple then red. This is what I have thus far.
The pictures are not great. I took them after I finished painting. The banner will be a brownish color while the skull will be bright white with a sharp contrast producing wash and the spine will also be the same. All of the brass will get the new oxidizing technical paint on it, so I am looking forward to that. The Nurgling will be a green-brown to create contrast. The parchments will all get a 1:1 mix of agrax earthshade and ogryn flesh to slowly drop the tone to aged paper. The tentacles will get a drybrush of a light pink and then some hard highlights of either a brighter pink or a brighter, sharper, flesh color.
Well, thanks for reading.
So I have used resin bases before. They are detailed and nice. But I was looking for thick cobbletones or crude paving stones. something you would see in 17th century France. So I decided to GS some. Viewed alone, the stones are crude and exaggerated. However, I think in the 28mm scale they work well.
So…this is how I do it (right now, looking into a different way to do it).
Base of choice
That’s it. It’s actually very simple.
Onto the process.
First, take a ball of GS and flatten it to cover the base evenly with GS. Use whatever technique you want to flatten and portion this out. The deeper the GS, the more pronounced the cracks between the stones. Deeper cracks are nice if you want a more aged look with sprouts of grass popping up between the stones.
Next, use something long and straight. For 25mm bases, I use the back of my blade and for larger bases I use my kitchen paring knife. Just make sure you wash it afterwards. Make parralell lines across the base. It should look like this:
This will be the width of your bricks. If you want scale, I go for the width of a space marine foot for width. Narrower is fine, but it can be tedious if you are doing a lot of them. So I go with a space marine foot.
Next, you need to seperate the stones. Take a blade and start from one side and cut very lightly into the GS to make the lines. Make them light in case you don’t like it once you are done. Make sure you alternate them like bricks, but not perfectly. I opt for a rough hewn look (again, think 17th century France) and vary the lengths between 1.5 and 2 times the width normally. Some end up very short.
Now, it’s time to start. Take some water to make your blade non-stick. Also, chap-stick works as well and doesn’t seem to create a problem when painting…all you have to do is rinse it off after you are done. Cut the length cuts deeper, down to the base. Make sure that the blase is sharp. If it is dull, it will pull. If you HAPPEN to have a tool that can make cuts and is the same width or narrower than the bricks and you can use a chisel motion, that’s great. Overall, should look like this after this step:
Well, this looks like a brick wall or freshly laid flagstones. Take a tool for shaping. I use the spoon side of the GW sculpting tool.
Now, go around the brick corners and flatten them a little.
Afterwards, you should have this:
This is sort of plain. So I use a sculpting tool with an edge and pick away at the brick edges to cause damage. Also, if you cut to the base, if you wait a while you can pull one up and lay it at an angle as if it had come out of place or you can even put dirt there to show a missing stone. I also put bullet marks, chaos symbols, and general wear and tear.
Last step would be to adjust the contour. No cobblestone is perfectly smooth. Again, I take the smooth side of the GW spoon end sculpting tool and create small indents in various bricks, making sure I don’t make a pattern. It’s subtle and small, but will pay off huge when you apply washes.
So, the final product looks like this:
Thanks for reading, hope you found this useful!
So, I love sorcerers. The conversion opportunities are endless. SO I am using an older body and conversion and my primary conversion that is new is an arm. An open handed arm that casting a psychic power with the power being unleash on…well, I believe an unwitting space marine though I have modeled that yet.
Thus far, here is the arm and power.
This part is the easiest by far. I have to clean up the wrist a little and I attempted to push out the arm to the side by building up the joint, but the magnets squished the GS and now I must start over. Grr.
However, the psychic power projection requires much more effort. First, I built a wire armature…
The intent clearly (well…hopefully clearly) is a left hand. After building the hand, I had to start to cover it with GS. After covering it with GS up to the areas that I have to shape to be holding the target. After, I started to put the detail flames on it. This is a multi-step process in which I have to let layers of flame dry first. Here is the layer:
So this is where the armature stands now. I am going to build the flames up to the wrist before I detail the hand to establish a solid style first. There will be more done tonight,hoping to wrap the flames all the way around the arm.
Well, thanks for reading,